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Salzburg or Passau?

I had the chance to visit Salzburg on a Rick Steves Germany, Austria & Switzerland tour a few years ago. It was only a two-night stay but we packed in a lot of activity! I loved Salzburg! It was grey and rainy while we were there and I told myself I'd like to come back someday and re-experience all that beauty in better weather. I'm taking my first river cruise in October, a seven night cruise on the Danube River after first spending 5 nights in Warsaw, Krakow and Budapest. When the ship is docked in Passau on Friday, Oct. 18, our options are an included walking tour of the city, followed by free time, or for an extra fee ($105) a 9-hour excursion to Salzburg for a city tour, lunch, and then some free time. It looks like the round trip bus ride will be at least 3 of the nine hours. I assume lunch will be a lengthy group affair. So it sounds like maybe 4 hours of time to see Salzburg. I'd probably opt out of the guided tour, which is likely to be similar to the one I had on my GAS tour, and just have 4 hours to roam. Or, opt out of the lunch too and now I've got six hours. $105 is a lot to pay just for the transportation, but like I said, I've always hoped that I might get back to beautiful Salzburg some day. On the other hand, I've never been in Passau. Would it be dumb to subject myself to a three hour bus ride, to see a city I've visited before, when instead I can have a full day to explore and enjoy Passau? Anyone who's spent time in both want to express an opinion on that?

Posted by
32700 posts

To help set your mind at ease, if you do it yourself on the train, depending on which train you could take, it won't be any faster by train.

The 8:05 (first train after 6:49) takes 2:33 including a 20 minute connection. That's after you get to the Passau Hbf from the ship.

The next at 9:34 takes the same amount of time, and includes 2 connections, a 5 minute one and a 20 minute one.

Then you need to plan your return because you don't want to miss the boat.

Does it stay the night in Passau or does it move on?

Posted by
1894 posts

Passau as a starting point for going to Salzburg is not the best option. You will waste most of the day by travelling, no matter whether by bus or train. Passau has a lot to offer (history, buildings, the old city, the three rivers, etc.), so I'd stay there for the day.

Posted by
856 posts

We found Passau delightful. From the cathedral, the fortress/castle and the glass museum - there is easily a full day's worth of sites to see. It is a beautiful city.

Have a great trip!

Posted by
613 posts

My experience: 4 trips to Salzburg, 10 to Passau and it's a no brainer-- PASSAU. Think of Passau as a small scale Salzburg without crowds. Want to see a castle on top a hill? Passau has one. For inexplicable reasons, the third rate Baroque cathedral in Salzburg is considered a highlight, but Passau has a first rate cathedral with what may be the world's biggest pipe organ.

If not included on your walk, go see the town hall & council chamber.

Posted by
613 posts

Some tips:

If your guided tour goes first to Buda Castle, abandon the tour (which next goes to Pest) and stay in the castle district. Lobby of the Hilton Hotel has excavations of the Roman fort that was once here. Very attractive streets to explore. For bad weather, big museum in the Imperial Palace.

In Pest: the Holocaust sculpture monument on the river bank near Parliament is stunning. SO is the Imre Nagy memorial on the other side of Parliament.

If you stop at Linz, don't. Get out of town somehow, preferably to Chesky Krumlov. Linz is one of the touristic most boring cites in Europe.

MELK: After 54 EU vacation trips, the Abby Church at Melk gets my vote for the top sight in Europe. The guided bus tour goes up the river side of the cliff, missing the cute little town at the bottom of the cliff. Its an easy walk back to the docks from the Abbey. Take the bus up, walk back.
The standard Abbey tour wastes too much time in the religious museum. Forge ahead of the tour to the banquet room, library, and church. My wife goes stir crazy after 45 minutes in the church. I think I could spend hours there.

Posted by
454 posts

Thanks to all who replied with their suggestions. I'm going tto stay in Passau for the day. I'll just have to put a return visit to Salzburg on a future trip! The choice when we are docked in Linz is to remain there for the day, with an included guided tour to start the day, or pay $105 to have a full-day excursion to Cesky Krumlov. The bus ride to Cesky Krumlov appears to be much shorter than the bus ride from Passau to Salzburg, and I've always wanted to see Cesky Krumlov, so that's my choice for that day.