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I biked the Wachau Valley - my tips and ideas

One the best day trips from Vienna is exploring the Wachau Valley of the Danube River, which stretches from Melk to Krems. The day trip can easily be made into a 2-3 day side trip.

There are substantial hills flanking the river on both sides which have been carefully terraced into vineyards. Fortress ruins sit on top of many of the higher peaks, including the famous ruin of Duernstein where Richard the Lionheart was held for ransom.

While Melk and the even larger Krems are nearly worthy of a day visit on their own (the Melk Abbey is extraordinary and the town of Krems is chocolate box perfect), I focused this visit on the area between these two towns - an area full of villages with wineries, gothic churches, apricot orchards and an excellent biking path.

This region is approximately 1.5 hours by train from Vienna. I did this day trip on April 4, as the skies were blue, the winds were mild and the apricot trees were in full bloom (if you want to see my photos from the day trip, please have a look at my Instagram account @3point14maker). I've done this trip more times than I can count and thought I would provide some wisdom here.

Getting There and Back - As mentioned above, this area is accessed by train. Use Google Maps public transportation function to determine the best route from your location in Vienna. For me, I took a train (OeBB Railjet) from Wien Hauptbahnhof to St Pölten where I switched to a local train to Melk. I bought my ticket at the station just before I boarded for 21.60 Euro (one way). For my return from Krems, I took a regional train from Krems to Wien Heiligenstadt where I then boarded the U4 subway line to get home. Total return cost was 21.60 Euro as well. As I was traveling as a single person I paid full fare each, but had I been with my family I would have used my Voteilscard Family and saved a bit or (more practical for non-residents) is the Einfach Raus Ticket which allows you to travel on regional trains as a group for a discounted price (NOTE - this ticket would not have worked on my Railjet train from Hauptbahnhof to St. Polten). Details on Einfach Raus tickets can be found here - https://www.oebb.at/en/tickets-kundenkarten/freizeit-urlaub/einfach-raus-ticket

Biking - I use the NextBike App, which allows me to use my phone to scan QR codes to rent bikes. This app works in both the Wachau and within Vienna. It is very cheap - I rent bikes regularly in Vienna for less than 1 Euro for nearly an hour. In the Wachau I had the bike for nearly 7 hours and it was 11.25 Euro. It is important to know that you need access to a smartphone and data in order to use these bikes. The NextBikes are lined up at a stand at the Melk train station and there is another stand at the train station in Krems. With the NextBike app, you can see that there are NextBike stands in every village in the Wachau and numerous stands in the larger towns. The bike has an adjustable seat, a basket and is in great condition. If helmets are important to you, then you might want to bring one. That said, they are heavier bikes not the sleek ones for long distance. I took my bike at 10:00 am and returned it at approximately 5:00 pm. Google Maps said that the bike journey I took was a little over 42 kilometers, which would have taken about 2.5 hours if I biked straight through. But I stopped many places for photos and for lunch, so a slower way.

The Route - I took my bike as mentioned in Melk and biked all the way to Krems. I took the north bank of the river the entire way. It is possible to also take the south bank or to cross the river at ferries at Spitz, Weissenkirchen or Duernstein. I prefer the north bank as that stretch includes the villages that I love, whereas the south bank is more agricultural. The bike path is part of a larger bike path that follows the Danube for hundreds of kilometers. The path is entirely protected from traffic with the exception of the stretches within Melk and Krems - so very safe.

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Continued

The Route (continued) - The bike path, however, does go through some of the smaller villages, but the cars are entirely deferential to bikes. The path is primarily flat, but there are some small, short hills to climb and one very large uphill just as you leave Melk to get over the bridge and on the path (I walked my bike up that one). The bike path is very well signed.

What I saw - Once I crossed the Danube to the north bank, I found that the stretch from Melk to Aggsbach Markt was the most boring part of the ride, but once I got to that point, it was utterly amazing. I spent about an hour at a publicly accessible apricot orchard just south of Aggsbach Markt, taking a ton of photos. The farmer was also selling apricot products. After Aggsbach Markt, I passed through the quaint villages of Willendorf and Schwallenbach. Spitz and Weissenkirchen are the real highlight villages for me. I like to stop in Weissenkirchen as my favorite pit stop is there (I'll tell you the name in a private message), but plenty in that area to choose from especially the beautiful Holzapfel restaurant. In the past, I have stopped in Weissenkirchen to explore the church and the vineyards above it, but on this day, I just kept biking as my main goal was to photograph apricot blossoms. I similarly breezed through Duernstein (the strech between Weissenkirchen and Duerstein is absolutely stunning) without stopping, but it would be excellent to take a break here and hike up to the famous castle ruin for a spectacular view of the valley. (Note the bikes have a lock, but no one is going to steal them). I then headed into Krems and returned the bike with ease.

What I ate - I stopped at my favorite place for lunch in Weissenkirchen for a plate of cold cuts and grape juice mixed with fizzy water. I have a photo of my meal on Instagram if you are curious. I also wished I had a few spare minutes in Krems to stop at the ice cream place just near the train station. I also like to stop in Duernstein for an apricot dumpling at the Richard Lionheart hotel, but that wasn't in the cards on this trip. I brough my own water with me.

Other thoughts - If I do this again next year, I probably will do the journey in reverse and possibly cross the river at Spitz to the southside. Other very notable attractions in the area are the Aggstein Fortress and the Gottweig Abbey. You can track the progress of the apricot blooms on this webcam - https://www.wachauermarille.at/wachauer-marille/webcam. This website in German shows you paths through the orchards - https://www.donau.com/de/wachau-nibelungengau-kremstal/marillenbluete/marillenmeile-rossatz-arnsdorf/. This is the best online location, however, for everything you need to know about Wachau apricot blossoms, including info on the Wachau train, which is an alternative to biking the entire distance (you can switch to English with Google) - https://www.donau.com/de/wachau-nibelungengau-kremstal/marillenbluete

Have a great time.

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It depends on which way you are going. The apricot dumplings that I like are in Duernstein at the terrace of the Richard Lionheart Hotel (I mean look at this set up - https://www.richardloewenherz.at/en/culinary/restaurant/). The Altes Presshaus in Duernstein is great if you want a hearty meal. In Duernstein you can easily stock up on local wine and apricot products - lots of free samples.

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Thank you for this wonderful and very detailed write up both covering the practical aspects and describing the joy of riding the route. You have gifted the Forum a terrific resource !!!

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1148 posts

Wow, thanks so much for taking the time to write this up, always great to get local knowledge, especially when it involves such a wonderful bike tour!

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906 posts

Emily, this sounds really cool! Bookmarking for a future trip. Thanks!

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Thanks for the trip report, Emily. This is the next leg of our trip after spending time in the Salzkammergut (thanks for your recommendations there!). We are staying two nights in Melk and plan to bike the same route that you did, and take the bus back to Melk once we finish our ride. If you could PM the name of your favorite place to stop in Weissenkirchen and a winery or two along the way I would appreciate it. Sounds like a great bike ride! David

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3694 posts

Thanks for the write-up. We have 2 weeks in Vienna next spring. Wondering if some of this could be done with an ebike?

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David P - info sent

Tammy - I saw so many e-bikes but they were not rentals, they were personal bikes. Google “e-bike verleih Wachau” and see what you get. My quick search (verleih = rental) showed several places.