Please sign in to post.

Disappointed by Wachau

Melk - itself is a cute little town under the shadow of the giant abbey. Its a friendly and had a nice Christmas market with singing. There were a couple of nice coffee shops. We came back twice. The abbey looks like a big library above the town - not as ancient as I expected. You can get to the abbey by climbing some stairs from down town, or else drive around to a dedicated parking lot. We came back twice. We found out later than there was a Nazi camp in Melk which dampened the memory.

Krems - A huge disappointment. We kept wondering where is the good part of this town. The photos of the hotel seemed to suggest a patio view of the river, but actually it was a patio view of a drainage ditch or off shoot, and the town is a bit far form the river. A lot of its pretty industrialized. The city center had the worst Xmas market - not a single thing being sold except liquor and everyone getting drunk. No food, crafts, or other things.

Durnstein - this is an interesting place. But the "castle" is a pile of rubble on the hill. There is a nice chapel there - which seems like a miniature Melk abbey. If you drive its a twisted narrow set of roads, and the way to get out was to pass all the way through.

The overall river view between Melk and Krems - not really very exciting at all. Fairly flat land with a wide river. I would say that the Rhine in Germany was much more scenic. Its not a bad area, and maybe its the "most beautiful stretch of the Danube", but its not at all worth any extra effort to be there or see it.

If we were to do it over again, we would drive to Melk and spend a few hours, then move on.

Posted by
8049 posts

We did this trip in the fall and were also a little disappointed. The river cruise while pleasant is nowhere near as scenic as similar cruises on the Rhine. Still pleasant but a little underwhelming. We found we didn't really have enough time in Melk or Durnstein; The Abbey library is amazing but it is also the one room in which photos were not allowed. -- we took the bus from Durnstein to the train station in Krem so don't have an opinion about Krem since we didn't have enough time for it. Durnstein is a classic tourist trappy kitchy town. I am sure it was charming before it became disneyfied. We had the same experience of the Cinque Terre. When we hiked the trails 30 plus years ago we were the only tourists on the trail on the day we went and the towns were utterly charming and unspoiled; now it is like San Gimignano a kitchy souvenir stand on every corner. Durnstein was like that, totally oriented to superficial tourism. We did climb up to the castle -- a pretty hefty climb for an old lady -- and the views are fabulous from up there. It should have come as no surprise that the place is a ruin since you can see it from the river as you come in.

We enjoyed the day but it was more rushed and less spectacular than anticipated. We enjoyed our short cruise on the Rhine in spite of it being a somewhat dreary day. If our day on the Danube had not been lovely and sunny I am not sure we would have found the views compensation for the gloom; we were very lucky with the weather.

It reminds me that one of the keys to delight is low expectations.