Please sign in to post.

A Viennese Food Crawl

I’ve been inspired by some private messages to create a food crawl through Vienna’s city center. The places I am recommending serve food “to-go.” I know that most visitors may assume that you have to be all sit down and fancy to find the best food. But my experience tells me that you can get excellent food on the fly. Come hungry and bring a friend to share.

First stop - Thum Schinkenbar at Herrengasse 6. Have a glass of champagne and the very best ham sandwich you have ever had in your life. You want to order the Schinkensemmerl, freshly sliced ham, freshly grated horseradish, homemade pickles on a homemade kaiser roll (called a Semmel in Vienna).

Second stop - Wiener Seife also at Herrengasse 6. Ok, this is technically soap, so not food unless you cussed a lot as a child. But this soap is locally produced and beautifully packaged in scents that reflect Vienna. Great souvenirs, but don’t eat it!

Third stop - When you walk out of Thum (or Wiener Seife) go to the left and stop a few doors down at Zuckerlwerkstatt, a magical Viennese candy shop which specializes in very intricate hard candies with seasonal designs inside (you just have to see it to understand). These make great souvenirs as well (the fruit gummies won’t make it out of Vienna, they are too good).

Fourth stop - exit Zuckerlwerkstaff and head again to the left towards the Hofburg Palace. When you reach the square in front of the palace entrance, so left on Kohlmarkt to Cafe Demel. Do not be tempted to go inside (ok maybe you inside and look at the cake display). Go to the outside window to the left of the entrance. At this window you want to order Kaiserschmarrn with plum sauce. This is probably more iconic than apple strudel for Viennese. Kaiserschmarrn is like the most fluffy pancake you have ever had torn into chunks. If you are feeling daring, then get the hot chocolate mit schlag (with whipped cream). It is decadent.

Fifth stop - Continue walking up Kohlmarkt towards the Graben (this would be to the left as you exit Demel. Kohlmarkt will turn into Tuchlauben. On your left stop at Eissalon Tuchlauben for a cup or cone of their famous Nougat Eis (like frozen Nutella in ice cream form).

Sixth stop - Go to the left again as you exit the Eissalon and follow Tuchlauben until you reach Hoher Markt (a large rectangular square) on your right. You will see a humble sausage stand on your right in the square, the Würstelstand zum Hohen Markt. This is a local favorite. You can get your sausage sliced on a piece of brown bread or stuffed in a roll (this is called a hot dog). My preference is to have a Kasekrainer (this is a sausage with chunks of cheese inside) sliced with brown bread, with a side of fresh Kren (horseradish if you have been paying attention) and Senf (mustard). You get a little fork to eat the slices. This stand notably has a spicy version of the Kasekrainer, which I love.

Seventh stop - Walk through Hoher Markt towards Rotenturmstrasse, passing the beautiful Ankeruhr on your left (try to pass this moving clock with life size figures at the top of the hour to see the statues going around). When you reach Rotenturmstrasse, go to the left until you reach the Brioche und Brösel kiosk in the small square at end of the first block. This amazing place is run by the Figlmüller family (the most famous Schnitzel place in the world?). Here at the kiosk you can get a legit schnitzel sandwich, or, my favorite, the chicken sandwich. It’s like going to Figlmüller without the wait. Seriously don’t miss this stop.

Eighth stop - Continue down Rotenturmstrasse and take a right on Greichengasse. As you reach the end of this alley, it will curve to the right and you will see the Fenster Cafe. Here you can treat yourself to a great coffee to go from the window (Fenster).

Continued below….

Posted by
5858 posts

Ninth stop - Continue along the Greichengasse alley until you reach Fleischmarkt, where you will go to the right. Then take a left on Köllnerhofgasse. Take a left on Grashofgasse and walk through the door/gate into the Heligenkreuzerhof, one of my favorite hidden squares (which has beautiful rose bushes). If you look hard enough, you can see relics of a much older Vienna. Walk through the door/gate at the far end of the square. Go right on Schönlaterngasse (but take a minute to admire how beautiful this street is. Cross over Sonnenfelsgasse and walk down the small lane almost directly across called Windhaaggasse. When you reach Bäckerstraße see if you can find the medieval mural on the wall opposite (look for the cow wearing glasses). Turn right on Bäckerstraße and stop at Paremi located at Bäckerstraße 10. Go inside and get yourself a croissant. Trust me.

Tenth stop - Walk out of Paremi and go the right, passing the cow with the glasses. Keep walking down Bäckerstraße until you reach the large square on your left with a church. This is the most beautiful church interior in Vienna. Go inside and thank me. Continue down Bäckerstraße and turn right on Postgasse. Then turn right again on Wollzeille. Stop in Öfferl at Wollzeile 31 for a really fantastic Topfengolatschen (a sweet cheese pastry).

You’ve done it! How was it?

Posted by
461 posts

All duly noted for our trip next year. We have an extra day while in town, left 'open' (on purpose), and I think we've found that day's purpose. :)

Thanks Emily!

Posted by
10 posts

Thank you so much, Emily. I am putting all your stops into my phone right now. We'll be in Vienna in October and my stomach is already growling!