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A Local's Take on Vienna's Christmas Markets (5 out of 17 so far) - 2024 Edition

Time to share an update for the 2024 Christmas Market season in Vienna. As always, it is my hope to help 2024 visitors as well as visitors in 2025 and beyond. The season started early this year - there were still leaves on many trees! There are 17 Christmas Markets in Vienna this year I plan to visit. As I visit the markets, I will provide updates. So stay tuned as I bring you the best in cheese, sausage, hot drinks, mugs and crafts. I do post on Instagram and share many photos of the markets, if you want to see things from my point of view @3point14maker.

Some Advent Market basics:

When are the Markets? – The markets started this year on Nov. 8. Many close on Christmas Eve, but several find a new life after Christmas as New Year’s Markets, which can go until Jan. 6. I suggest the following link for exact dates/times - https://www.wien.info/en/now-on/christmas/christmas-markets-342664

Day or Night? – Definitely go to the markets after sunset, which at this time of year is about 4 pm. The darkness brings out the festive lights!

What should I wear? – Warm clothing is a must as you’ll be standing outside in the freezing cold, with little relief. A hat, gloves, warms socks and shoes are all imperative.

Will it snow? – Probably not.

What should I drink? – My new drink of choice is a hot chocolate with a shot of rum. That said, the most popular choices are punsch or Glühwein. Punsch is a warm alcoholic drink, usually fruit flavored but there are hundreds of variations (my favorite is the Mozart which is with marzipan and pistachio). Kinderpunsch (kid’s punsch) is the non-alcoholic version. Glühwein is warm spiced red wine - you can sometimes find white and rose. Be sure to get Schlag (whipped cream) on your hot chocolate.

How do I get my drinks? – Every market has multiple punsch stands which are like an outside bar. You push your way to the front and order your drink. You will pay for your drink (prices this year are 5-7 Euro per drink), plus a 5 Euro deposit for the mug (some markets also give you a plastic token). Every time I bought a punsch, I would witness a confused customer shouting at the worker that they were overcharged. Do not be this person. You will get your deposit back when you return the mug (or don’t return the mug and keep it as a souvenir). You can return your mug to any punsch stand in the same market – it doesn’t have to be the stand where you bought your drink. Each market has a unique mug.

Do I pay in cash or with a credit card? - Nearly all places, including the food and drink stands, readily take a credit card, but note that you will be given back your mug deposit in cash. The craft vendors also take your cards. I always have a bit of cash on hand for the rare exception that a vendor doesn't accept cards.

What do I eat at the market? – Markets typically serve fatty, cheesy and rich foods. Raclette, sausages, doughnuts, chestnuts, fried potatoes and big pans of spaetzle are common. You can definitely get a meal at a market, but bring the pepto.

Tell me about the shopping – Christmas crafts, ornaments and decorations galore of various quality and price are available at all markets. These days, many items are imported, but if you are diligent you can find nice locally made products. You can also easily find jewelry, clothing, toys, ceramics, soap, snow globes and everything in between. Many vendors will have stalls are multiple markets, so there is some repetition. Haggling is really not done and do not expect bargains.

Should I bring the kids? – Yes! (Karlsplatz and Altes AKH are best)

Suggested grouping of markets – Many of the markets are close to each other, making it possible to visit several in one afternoon/evening. Grouping #1 - Belvedere, Karlsplatz and the Oper Genuss Market. Grouping #2 – Rathausplatz and Altes AKH. Grouping #3 – Maria-Theresien-Platz, MuseumsQuartier and Spittelberg. Grouping #4 – Freyung, Am Hof and Stephansplatz.

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Updates arriving soon for Schonbrunn, Rathausplatz, Belvedere, Altes AKH and Karlsplatz - all visited this past weekend.

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Be sure to get Schlag (whipped cream) on your punsch ...

Be careful, certain kinds of Punsch do not really match whipped cream.
E.g. I would not like to have it on my orange flavored drink.

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2762 posts

Thank you so much! We wee supposed to be there this year, but had to cancel the trip so we are hoping for next December. I have already saved all that you wrote. I appreciate it so much!

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8338 posts

Emily, thanks for the report! This is all very helpful information. One of these days I want to get to Europe before Christmas and just travel from country to country, visiting all the markets and displays.

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5534 posts

Christmas Market & New Year's Market, Schönbrunn Palace - 8 out of 10. The Christmas Market at Schönbrunn has a fabulous setting in front of the forecourt of the palace. This year (2024), the market is greatly expanded and includes an ice skating rink, a ferris wheel and other children's rides. This is in addition to an expansion of craft and food stalls. The overall organization with the expansion is a bit chaotic, particularly as this market is exceptionally crowded. That said, this market has some of the best food and craft options. I ate Kaiserschmarrn (thick fluffy pancake chunks with plum compote), and a truffle raclette bread, while my friends had the soup in a bread bowl (they went back for seconds) and the Bosna (a traditional sausage from Salzburg). The Bosna was the best thing I ate that day. This market has some of the best food offerings of any market, in my opinion. The mugs this year are also new - traditional mug shape, but one has a picture of the palace and one has a picture of Sisi.

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630 posts

This is great. Thank you. Two questions:
1) Is there a name for the hot chocolate with rum? That sounds delicious.
2) Have you seen any miniature (under 2in) Nativity or Holy Family sets or ornaments? Years ago I got a matchbox size one at a market but have not seen them since. I collect them and can sometimes find in church/monastery gift shops.

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Christmas Village at Belvedere Palace – (6 out of 10) I find the setting of this market to be spectacular - it is the reason why you visit this market. Normally, you cannot get close to the palace after dark, so it is quite special to see it during the market season. The market is located in front of the Upper Belvedere, on the side facing Schweizergarten. The crafts are average, but this is one of the few markets selling the collectable Boleslawiec pottery from Poland. It is not a huge or overwhelming market and is organized in a way that makes it seem less crowded than it is. This year I had a hot chocolate with rum (again), which hit the spot and a bag of roasted cinnamon almonds. None of the foods appealed to me - two sausage stands and lots of donuts. The mug this year is in the shape of a red sock, so fairly unique and collectible. This year as well the market features a music stage to get you in the Christmas-y mood. Unfortunately this year the small rides for kids are gone (or at least I didn't see the train). I would say this is more a market for the adult crowd.

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Christmas Village on the University Campus – (8 out of 10) This is a market for foodies and a local secret. I honestly think that few tourists find their way to the Altes AKH for this very special market. Located in the inner courtyard of the old state hospital, the setting is full of tree, lights and wooden paths, giving it a real village feel. The food is the real star here as each region of Austria has its own food pavilion to showcase its food. It all looked good and of a higher quality than is usually found at the markets. Because the market is spread out, the crowds are not overwhelming. I will say, however, that the craft stalls were a bit lacking but I did like that the University of Vienna, which owns the surrounding buildings, has a stall selling their t-shirts, etc. The mugs this year are in the shape of a red sock with a white toe (I didn't see the gingerbread man ones that they had last year). This is a market good for children as here is also a merry-go-round and curling available for those who want some activity.

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Vienna Christmas World at Rathausplatz – (7 out of 10) This is the granddaddy of the Viennese markets, the one you see on all the top 10 lists. It is the biggest but in the past two years attempts have been made to reorganize the stalls to make more space. The crafts tend to be imported, and the food/drinks are average. There is a nativity scene this year as well as a huge Christmas tree. Many photo opportunities in this market. The highlight, however, is the ice skating area. There are ice trails which wind through the park on the right side of the city hall. You can rent skates and lockers - it is really fun. The parks on either side of the market are also filled with fun light displays, including a giant red heart which sails above the market at the top of each hour. The mugs this year are normal mug shaped with a photo of the Rathaus. I did not eat or drink anything as it was $$$ for the quality.

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Art Advent - Art & Crafts on Karlsplatz – (10 out of 10) My absolute favorite, for many years now. Where do I start? I’ll start with the overall atmosphere. Framed by the fabulous Karlskirche, the stalls rim the fountain and extend into the park under fairy lights. The fountain is transformed into a kid’s paradise, with bales and bales of hay for imaginative play. There is a pedal-powered train track and the absolute coolest recycled merry-go-round you’ll ever see. This market is tops for smaller kids. The crafts are equally fabulous, with only local crafts allowed to show. A particularly nice selection of jewelry can be found at this market. As for punsch, you’ll find the standards here, as well as some special variations. I personally like the Schilcher Glühwein (Schilcher is a special type of Austrian wine), which can be found at the back of the market. I also like that the punsch stands at Karlsplatz tend to have little sitting nooks, which can be a relief. For food, you cannot miss the Bauernkrapfen – a giant, flat doughnut filled with either jam or sauerkraut (yes!). Also, there is a very nice raclette stand here, which is cheesy, special goodness. This year I had fabulous hot chocolate from the stand at the back of the market - spicy with rum! The mugs this year are standard shape in black with the name of the market printed.

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5534 posts

1) Is there a name for the hot chocolate with rum? That sounds
delicious.

Menu items are almost always written in German and English, but look for Heiße (hot) Schokolade (chocolate) mit (with) Ruhm (rum) mit Schlag (with whipped cream).

2) Have you seen any miniature (under 2in) Nativity or Holy Family
sets or ornaments? Years ago I got a matchbox size one at a market but
have not seen them since. I collect them and can sometimes find in
church/monastery gift shops.

Not yet.

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733 posts

Emily,

How are crowds at the non-market sites? We often travel to New York City and during the Christmas season the major museums are too croweded to enjoy. I have been to Vienna in February and October, but not at Christmas or in the height of the summer season.

We are planning a trip in 2026 with some friends. I would like to visit Vienna for 3-4 days on the trip and I'm concerned that they and my wife won't enjoy Vienna if the museums, palaces and churches are overly packed.

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20780 posts

Do keep in mind that most people only post to complain. Very few post to just to say thank you or I enjoyed it. I assume if you went to reviews on most Christmas Markets in Europe you would find a lot of locals complaining that it isnt like it used to be. Welcome to the world! Among the outside visitors, the market was very well reviewed; and since we (for the most part) are part of the "outside", I suspect "we" would enjoy the market.

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Do keep in mind that most people only post to complain.

Especially in this case, this is not true. When looking at the languages of the posts you can observe that non-German posts, most likely from tourists, are very postive, wheras German posts, most likely from Viennese people, are negative.

A major issue of complaints is the removal of the famous crib, consisting of hundreds of hand-carved wooden figures, which was traditionally placed next to the Christmas tree. More anger emerged after a newspaper revealed that the crib is for sale (€11k). That would mean that it will not return next year.

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1133 posts

Heiße Schokolade mit Rum. Equals hot chocolate with rum. I used google translate.

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We go later this month and are so excited to spend a full week in Vienna! Thanks for sharing about your hometown -- this post is linked in my travel plans so I can refer back to it once we arrive.

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Just my two cents on the Schönbrunn market, as a non-local repeat visitor….I have gone regularly for the last 10 years or so and this was always one of my favorite Christmas markets due to the good quality vendors and food stalls as well as the overall less tacky atmosphere. My impression this year was definitely less favorable. The new layout made things feel way more crowded. It seemed like there were more food stalls and fewer crafts, and the quality was not as good as in past years. Normally we have always enjoyed a leisurely stroll around and actually spoke to vendors, bought things, etc. This time we left after an hour and, besides a Glühwein and quick snack, didn’t buy anything. We also missed the little concert bandstand and, yes, the nice nativity scene…overall, it is still a decent market with a spectacular backdrop, but we agreed it was not as enjoyable as past years.

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We just returned from Vienna and are very grateful for Emily's suggestions! Her reviews made for an excellent guide for us.

I just want to add, for anyone that might be there now or in the next few weeks:

Her comment about the Art Advent - Art & Crafts on Karlsplatz mentions "the absolute coolest recycled merry-go-round you’ll ever see." She's absolutely right! It is very steampunk and fascinatingly unusual. It is powered by the parents who pedal attached bicycles. Everyone loves it. I found it refreshing and delightful. Do go to this market! Also, they served the best gluwhein I've ever tasted.

Also, at the Art Museum called Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien (KHM) is a special exhibit on Rembrandt and one of his star pupils, Hoogstraten. It's superb. Only going until early January. Well worth it if you are there. I'd never been to this wonderful museum and now think it's one of the best in the world. The rooms are large, uncrowded, high ceilings with natural light from skylights, and wonderful padded seating in the middle. Great audio guide. We planned only an hour but spent three hours completely enthralled, in only one end of one floor of the building. Absolutely gobsmacked by this museum!

The KHM faces the Natural History Museum, and between them now is a wonderful Christmas market. There is a booth with a chocolate fountain and fresh strawberries. The strawberries were ripe and sweet - in the middle of winter!!!! An absolute miracle. A great antidote to the heavy snacks one finds in the markets. I am still dreaming of this discovery.

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Hi Emily, thank you so much for posting these details! I considered going to a Christmas Market series of cities this year as something completely new for me but decided to go back to Spain, instead in the new year. I love reading your descriptions and hope to go to one in the next few years. Happy Holidays!

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2831 posts

Thanks for all this info, Emily! We had planned to visit the markets in 2020, but that never happened. It’s still on my list, but hasn’t worked out yet. I’m saving your reports for when we do (hopefully) get to Vienna.

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527 posts

Emily, thanks so much for this report. Very comprehensive and I will bookmark it for future use.

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We have officially visited 11 (I think) markets and Emily’s advice was spot on — big from this year and year’s past. Here’s what we liked and didn’t like from various markets:

1) Am Hof: one of our favorites. Great food. Lovely shopping. We went at 11:30/12:00 for lunch one day. Not crowded, yummy food (spaetzle and pear-lemon balm punsch mmmm), and nice shops. Might have been even more festive in the evening.
2) Schönbrunn: Our first market and one we really enjoyed as a first taste — everything in German and English. We went after our 1 pm palace visit, so timing was excellent. We enjoyed the market before it was crowded and then saw the lights once the sun set and then we were ready to go home. Nice mix of shops, food, lights and even ice skating and curling.
3) Altes market at the University: This was our 16-year-old’s favorite because it felt so festive. We went tonight (Friday before Christmas), so it was pretty crowded, but not awful. Good food. Lovely setting.
4) Stephansplatz: Nah. Skip or just wander through if you are nearby. I did enjoy a fried potato thing there when I got hungry before meeting the family for lunch. (The guys slept in.)
6) Maria Theresianplatz: Nice. Not bad, not fantastic. Was one we went to early on, so hard to say much more other than it was ok.
7) Rathaus: Wow. Don’t fail to see this. Amazing lights. But, so crowded. We just walked through and then headed to Altes.
8) Karlsplatz: We were tired this day. It wasn’t our favorite. But, I think it’s also because we are tourists so more touristy things appeal more. Definitely has the most unique shopping.
9) Belvedere: Only bother if you happen to be there. And, try to time your visit for evening. Only worth it to see the palace in lights, etc.
10) Freyung: Ok. But we liked Am Hof so much better, and it is like a block away.
11) Spittelberg: Nice food, nice shops. One corner, though, has too many food stands crammed in and it becomes a log jam. Just avoid that spot — the rest of the market is lovely.

We also learned from our tour guide that Saturdays and Sundays are super busy at the markets because of locals and bus trips.

I’m sure there are lots of other markets to visit! But, 11 feels like enough for one week lol.

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Thanks Emily. I'm thinking I'll be in Vienna next December and will want to market-hop!